Jordan: Petra, Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea & Everything In Between

Jordan was one of those trips where I knew Petra would be incredible, but I didn’t realize how much there was to see beyond it.

Roman ruins, castles, the Dead Sea, desert, camels casually crossing the road, some of the best hummus I’ve ever eaten and more winding mountain roads than I ever need to experience again.

We started in Amman and basically made a loop through the country, stopping in Jerash, Ajloun, the Dead Sea, Petra and Wadi Rum before eventually making our way back to Amman.

The Treasury at Petra, Jordan, one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

Amman

We started at the Grand Hyatt Amman, which made an easy base for exploring the city and heading north to Jerash and Ajloun.

Amman is sprawling, hilly and a mix of old and new. We didn’t spend a ton of time sightseeing here because there was so much we wanted to see outside the city, but it was a good place to start and end the trip.

The indoor pool at Grand Hyatt Amman, complete with twinkling ceiling lights and views over the city.

Jerash

Jerash was one of the surprises of the trip. The ancient city, once known as Gerasa, has enormous colonnaded streets, temples, arches and a Roman theater that you can actually wander through.

It feels less like looking at a collection of ruins and more like walking through an ancient city.

Ancient Roman ruins and the colonnaded street of Jerash, Jordan.

Roman columns at the ancient city of Jerash in northern Jordan.

When we reached the theater, there were musicians playing inside, which made the whole place feel very much alive despite being thousands of years old.

Roman theater in Jerash, Jordan with traditional musicians performing.

Exploring the ancient Roman city of Jerash, one of Jordan’s best archaeological sites.

Ajloun Castle

From Jerash we continued to Ajloun Castle, a medieval fortress sitting high above the surrounding countryside.

The castle itself is interesting, but the view is the reason I’d make the stop. Jordan looked completely different up here than the desert landscape I had pictured before the trip.

Mountain views from Ajloun Castle in northern Jordan.

While traveling around the city, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the people of Jordan were apparently huge Britney Spears fans, just like me. I felt right at home.

A very unexpected Britney Spears sighting in a souvenir shop in Jordan.

The Dead Sea

Salt-covered rocks along the shore of the Dead Sea in Jordan.

The Dead Sea comes with rules. Most importantly: do not get it in your eyes. I learned that one the hard way.

Next came one of those things you have to do at least once: float in the Dead Sea.

We stayed at a resort near here and spent most of our time doing exactly what you’re supposed to do. Cover yourself in mud, get in the water and discover that it is basically impossible to sink.

Floating in the Dead Sea in Jordan.

Ma’in Hot Springs

Ma’in Hot Springs Resort & Spa, a thermal oasis hidden in the mountains of Jordan.

From the Dead Sea, we headed into the mountains to Ma’in Hot Springs, which at the time was managed as Evason Ma’In Hot Springs & Six Senses Spa. Today it’s known as Ma’in Hot Springs Resort & Spa.

The hotel is tucked into this crazy mountain canyon, 866 feet below sea level, surrounded by natural hot springs and thermal waterfalls. It genuinely felt like we had driven into the middle of nowhere and found an oasis.

It was so magical and relaxing that we stayed in the hot springs until dark. They had plenty of water and clean towels ready for you when you were ready to get out.

Ma’in Hot Springs Resort & Spa surrounded by the mountains of Jordan.

Swimming beneath the natural thermal waterfall at Ma’in Hot Springs in Jordan.

This hotel is so remote that getting there involved roads like this:

Winding mountain roads on a road trip through Jordan.

We spent so much of this trip on winding roads that The Long and Winding Road became our unofficial soundtrack. We played it over and over again because apparently we really like committing to a theme.

Little did we know, this wasn’t even the scary one.

Petra

First view of the Treasury through the Siq in Petra, Jordan.

And then, Petra.

Petra is one of the New Seven Wonders of the World and it completely lives up to the hype.

You walk through the narrow Siq with these enormous rock walls rising around you, and eventually you get that first glimpse of the Treasury through the opening.

There really isn’t much I need to say here. You should see it.

Exploring the ancient city of Petra in Jordan.

Petra is so much bigger than the Treasury. We spent the day walking through tombs, caves and ruins carved directly into the rose-colored rock.

And of course, we rode camels through Petra because if there’s an animal experience, I’m doing it. There are some places where you fully embrace being a tourist, and riding a camel surrounded by the rose-colored cliffs of Petra is one of them.

Riding a camel through Petra, Jordan, surrounded by the rose-colored sandstone cliffs.

Wadi Rum

I assumed Petra would be the highlight of the trip, but that was before I made it to Wadi Rum.

Huge sandstone mountains rise straight out of the desert, with camels wandering around as if they own the place. Which, honestly, they kind of do. There were no other tourists there so it felt like we had this giant desert with these huge mountains, all to ourselves.

Heading into Wadi Rum by 4x4, with absolutely no idea it was about to become my favorite part of Jordan.

We headed into the desert in the back of a 4x4 with a local driver, who took us deep into the desert and dropped us at these massive sand dunes. We climbed up, ran down and basically played in the sand like children.

Running up the sand dunes of Wadi Rum, Jordan. Much harder than it looks.

Sitting among the endless rocks of Wadi Rum.

There was something about Wadi Rum that completely got me. The silence, the endless desert and the feeling that we had this enormous place almost entirely to ourselves. Petra may be the reason I wanted to see Jordan, but Wadi Rum is the part I fell in love with.

Mount Nebo

We also stopped at Mount Nebo, traditionally believed to be the place where Moses first saw the Promised Land. From the top, you can look over the Jordan Valley and Dead Sea, with Jerusalem and Jericho visible in the distance on a clear day.

The stone map at Mount Nebo pointing out the landmarks visible across the Jordan Valley.

Even without the history, the view alone makes it worth the stop.

Sunset view from Mount Nebo in Jordan.

And now, camels.

Camels weren’t limited to Petra and Wadi Rum. They were literally everywhere as we drove through the country. We’d occasionally have to stop driving and wait for camels to cross the road. Just part of the scenery.

Camels were everywhere in Jordan, including casually hanging out on the side of the road.

The Long and Winding Road

And then there was the road.

We took a scenic route through the mountains that was supposed to have incredible views. I’m sure it did but I was too busy crying because I was fully convinced we were going to die.

It was unbelievably steep and wound along the cliffs with drop-offs and no guardrails at all. I was actually too scared to take a picture, which, if you know me, tells you everything you need to know.

So no, I don’t have a photo of the worst part. I was busy surviving.

Take the highways if you have a fear of heights and/or cliffs. Trust me.

Worth the view. Not worth the drive.

Jordan

Eventually we made our way back to Amman, completing what felt like a pretty spectacular loop around Jordan.

Petra may be the reason most people come, but it wasn’t the only thing I remembered years later. I remember the endless mountains, camels in the road, Roman cities I hadn’t known existed, hummus I still think about and, unfortunately, every single turn of that mountain road.

Jordan is one of those places where the scenery seems to completely change every few hours. Go for Petra. Just don’t stop there.

Even the camels appreciate the views of Jordan.